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Question: "I really believe that I have a roof leak. We have an area of our ceiling in the bedroom that stays discolored. I took a look in the attic and found that some of the wooden beams were also darker than the others in certain places. How can I find and stop the leak in the roof?”

The leak in your roof is happening at one of two main places. Either you have an abrasion in your roofing material, or your have a failing flashing or gasket that protects the edges of your house frame. A major concept to consider is that the leak does not always start directly above the damage that the leak causes. It may start in an entirely different location and travel down the length of a beam or attachment. Or, your perceived leak may in fact be condensation on the underside of your roof. For these reasons, there are some specific steps you must take to locate and seal the leak in your roof.

The next day that you get some substantial rain, take a walk through your attic and inspect the floor for any and all signs of water collecting in areas. Some telling clues that you are in the right area are molding stains or damaged insulation. Make sure that as you walk through your attic, you are taking care to step on reinforced frames. An unfloored attic might give way under your weight and cause injury.

Investigate the underside of your roof for any signs of leaking. Follow trails of water up to their highest point in the framework and mark those areas with a marker. Pay special attention to tricky turns in roofing structure and along adjoining structures, such as a fireplace or roofing joint. Also look for discolored roofing pieces, as this may signify a puncture in your shingling. Measure important discoveries in order to help you locate them from the rooftop.

Question: "There is a loud cracking that occurs in the ceiling of our family room. At first, we thought it was ordinary fireplace noises, but we even hear it when the fireplace is not running. The noise is pretty loud. What is it?”

Believe it or not, the cracking that you hear in your family room is a lot more common than most people think. Houses are usually constructed with natural products, most commonly wood. And natural products are subject to contraction and expansion as the humidity and temperatures change. Engineered wood products are also subject to the same reactions to these environmental factors as natural wood. These reactions make for some interesting characteristics of these construction materials.

As temperatures and humidity change, the wood tends to expand and contract around its fastenings, most commonly nails. These changes in structure happen quite rapidly in some cases. When this occurs, the wood grain will split along the line of the nail, causing the loud cracking noise that you hear. And as the folks in the north know better than anyone, lower temperatures and humidity are the prime causes of splitting wood. Cold temperatures cause the molecules in the wood to bind together tighter, resulting in a significant contraction of the material.

That being said, I have good news and I have bad news. Which would you like to hear first? The bad news? There is not much you can do about natural structure changes in the wood of your home. The good news? These changes are most likely not causing any serious structural damage to your home. Most wood is adequately treated to withstand certain pressures cause by natural changes in the environment. So I wouldn't worry about it. Unless you see serious cracking in your walls that start small and run down the length of them, you can rest easy that everything is fine.

Question: "My wife and I are considering adding ceramic tile to the bathroom we recently installed in our teen suite. We've read books on the process, but the directions are somewhat confusing. Can you give us a quick lesson on the best way to install ceramic tile?”

Thanks so much for your question. Installing ceramic tile is a popular project that any do it yourselfer should know how to complete. It is a basic process that you can do yourself to save money. The first thing you need to do is gloss over the basics. Make sure that you have all of the materials you need before you start. I'll trust that your reference books have given you a comprehensive list. Also, make sure that your tiles and grout match the desired colors. And that you have enough quarter round tiles to complete the edges properly.

Consider whether or not the area you intend to tile will be subject to exposure to water or moisture. If so, use a water proof mastic that will resist deterioration or discoloring due to frequent exposure to water. Make sure that you read the tile manufacturer's instructions and follow them to the letter. This will save you time and trouble throughout the project. Spread your adhesive on across the area to be tiled with the smooth surface of your trowel, and then flip it to make deep grooves in the adhesive at a 45 degree angle.

Gently twist the tiles into place. Do not slide them. Lay your tiles row by row and cut them to specifications as you reach the edges of your tiling area. Use padded wood to beat down your tiles as you go to ensure that all tiles are properly seated in the adhesive. This piece of wood should extend beyond at least two tiles for maximum results. Keep going until you reach the end of your desired tiling area.

Question: "I keep noticing a musty smell and traces of mildew in the basement of our ranch home. We've tried a dehumidifier, only to have the problem increase. What is causing the smell and how can we get rid of it?”

Thanks so much for your question. The most probable cause for the musty smell and the mildew is the presence of elevated moisture levels in your basement. And even though you may not have water in the area, it is not uncommon for moisture to seep through the walls and accelerate the problem. There are a couple of solutions that you can try that will make a real difference over the course of time. Because the area isn't air conditioned, it will match the humidity levels outside of your home.

The first thing you can do is condition the air in your basement space. This can be accomplished by installing a central heating and cooling system inside of the area. The conditioned air will regulate the moisture levels that would otherwise build up in your basement space. The only problem with this solution is that it can be fairly expensive. So this route may not be the most practical solution for your problem. Adding vents drawing air from your main heating and cooling system is a consideration here.

The second method of ridding your basement of the smell and the mildew is to use a dehumidifier. You stated in your question that you've used a dehumidifier in the past, but your lack of success leads me to believe that you chose a unit that is too small for the area. Dehumidifiers come in a variety of sizes and capacities, depending upon your specific needs. You should choose a unit that is proper for your square footage. Also, you should drain your dehumidifier frequently to avoid the water sitting in the tank for too long.