Tuesday, June 28, 2005
How to Plant a Tree: Tips from My Dad
Question: "I'm considering planting a line of trees down one side of my property. Planting a tree is one of the things everyone should know, but I want to make sure I do it right. So my question is: how do you plant a tree properly?”
Thanks so much for your question. And for the answer, I'll turn to my dad, who is the tree planting expert. I gave him a call and he talked my ear off for this article. I knew that he would have plenty to talk about. But he did give some great advice, like I knew he would. Here's what he had to say.
This is a list of the tools and materials you will need to complete your project. A tape measure, the tree or shrub you are planting, a shovel or spade, a water source and nozzle, and plenty of bark or some other type of organic mulch.
The first step in the process is to properly site the tree. This means taking into consideration the expected diameter of your tree or shrub and placing your hole accordingly. This will ensure your tree or shrub has plenty of room to develop without interference.
The next step is to dig the hole. Measure the container that holds your tree or shrub and mark a hole on the ground to match. Make sure that you loosen the soil around the hole to give the roots a soft area to spread properly. Don't loosen the dirt at the bottom of the hole, as this could cause your tree to settle too deeply to grow.
Next, plant your tree or shrub. Remove it from its container, and prune any broken roots that you see. Place your tree in its hole and lay your shovel across the hole to check for depth. The root ball of the tree should touch the handle of the shovel. This will ensure that you have achieved the proper depth.
Finally, fill the hole with mulch or bark and water. Use your hand to loosely pack the mulch around the roots. Fill with water and then allow it to drain. This will ensure that you have properly dampened the planting area. Add another round of mulch and another good soaking.
Thanks so much for your question. And for the answer, I'll turn to my dad, who is the tree planting expert. I gave him a call and he talked my ear off for this article. I knew that he would have plenty to talk about. But he did give some great advice, like I knew he would. Here's what he had to say.
This is a list of the tools and materials you will need to complete your project. A tape measure, the tree or shrub you are planting, a shovel or spade, a water source and nozzle, and plenty of bark or some other type of organic mulch.
The first step in the process is to properly site the tree. This means taking into consideration the expected diameter of your tree or shrub and placing your hole accordingly. This will ensure your tree or shrub has plenty of room to develop without interference.
The next step is to dig the hole. Measure the container that holds your tree or shrub and mark a hole on the ground to match. Make sure that you loosen the soil around the hole to give the roots a soft area to spread properly. Don't loosen the dirt at the bottom of the hole, as this could cause your tree to settle too deeply to grow.
Next, plant your tree or shrub. Remove it from its container, and prune any broken roots that you see. Place your tree in its hole and lay your shovel across the hole to check for depth. The root ball of the tree should touch the handle of the shovel. This will ensure that you have achieved the proper depth.
Finally, fill the hole with mulch or bark and water. Use your hand to loosely pack the mulch around the roots. Fill with water and then allow it to drain. This will ensure that you have properly dampened the planting area. Add another round of mulch and another good soaking.
Winter Took a Toll on My Yard
Question: "I took meticulous care of my lawn and plants in the fall in hopes of helping them survive the winter without too much decline. But when the cold weather left, I was surprised at how poor everything looked. What happened?”
Thanks so much for your question. Frozen ice might make your lawn look like a winter wonderland, but the effects of a harsh winter can cause damage that you won't see until after the season. This is a frustrating, and quite common, problem that all homeowners must deal with. Here are just a few of the causes of the general decline in your lawn condition over the winter.
Sun scald occurs when sunshine warms a tree's inner tissue to above the freezing mark. When the sun no longer shines on the tree, the tissue freezes again in a relatively short period of time. This cycle, if repeated, causes serious damage to the tissue and consequently the plant itself. Symptoms that you will see in the spring include brown or black leaves, significant stem or branch dieback, bark splitting on trees, or an overall plant decline.
Winter drying, also known as “winter burn,” happens when leaves continue to lose water which is not sufficiently replaced. This usually occurs in dry or frozen soil. Signs you will see include marginal leaf scorch, tip burn, leaf mottling, leaf drop, or death of entire leaves, twigs, or plants. Heavy snow or ice can also be damaging to trees and shrubs, particularly upright evergreens. While snow can be removed using a long-handled broom, ice usually can't be removed without seriously damaging the plant.
One thing you can do to lessen winter injury is to use wind breaks, composed of burlap or some other thick material, in exposed areas. Another trick to ensuring sufficient moisture in the root zone before the soil freezes is by using mulch to help retain moisture. Maintaining plants by providing necessary nutrients, water, and protection against stress for more tolerance to winter injury is also a good practice.
Thanks so much for your question. Frozen ice might make your lawn look like a winter wonderland, but the effects of a harsh winter can cause damage that you won't see until after the season. This is a frustrating, and quite common, problem that all homeowners must deal with. Here are just a few of the causes of the general decline in your lawn condition over the winter.
Sun scald occurs when sunshine warms a tree's inner tissue to above the freezing mark. When the sun no longer shines on the tree, the tissue freezes again in a relatively short period of time. This cycle, if repeated, causes serious damage to the tissue and consequently the plant itself. Symptoms that you will see in the spring include brown or black leaves, significant stem or branch dieback, bark splitting on trees, or an overall plant decline.
Winter drying, also known as “winter burn,” happens when leaves continue to lose water which is not sufficiently replaced. This usually occurs in dry or frozen soil. Signs you will see include marginal leaf scorch, tip burn, leaf mottling, leaf drop, or death of entire leaves, twigs, or plants. Heavy snow or ice can also be damaging to trees and shrubs, particularly upright evergreens. While snow can be removed using a long-handled broom, ice usually can't be removed without seriously damaging the plant.
One thing you can do to lessen winter injury is to use wind breaks, composed of burlap or some other thick material, in exposed areas. Another trick to ensuring sufficient moisture in the root zone before the soil freezes is by using mulch to help retain moisture. Maintaining plants by providing necessary nutrients, water, and protection against stress for more tolerance to winter injury is also a good practice.
Choosing the Right Landscape Plants
Question: I recently saw some plants on the Internet that I thought would look great in a bed that borders my house. After purchasing and planting, the shrubs died within a couple of weeks. What's the problem?”
Thanks so much for your question. It is fairly common to fall in love with a particular plant, only to find it die a miserable death when planted. The reason for this is that, depending upon where you live in the United States, some shrubs or plants are just not suited for that particular region. As with most homeowners, your preferences take into account color, size, shape, texture, flowers, fruit, and other qualities. These are natural qualities to compare when selecting a landscape plant. But it is important to remember that looks and location aren't everything when selecting the best ornamental plants for your landscape.
Just because you are able to buy a plant online or from a mail-order catalog doesn't mean it is well adapted to your particular climate. This is a common mistake to make. The USDA has divided the United States into 11 zones for plant hardiness based on the low temperatures experienced in that zone. This rating system serves as a fairly accurate guide when choosing landscape plants. Even regionally, such as in California or Texas, there are major climactic differences between areas in close proximity, such as amount of rainfall, that are more favorable to some plants than others. When you purchase plants, they should be listed with the hardiness rating. So check the plant hardiness rating before making a commitment.
Other aspects to consider are site and soil conditions, size and type selection, pest resistance, and the initial health of the particular plant you are interested in. All of these factors come together to effect the growth and survival of your plants.
Thanks so much for your question. It is fairly common to fall in love with a particular plant, only to find it die a miserable death when planted. The reason for this is that, depending upon where you live in the United States, some shrubs or plants are just not suited for that particular region. As with most homeowners, your preferences take into account color, size, shape, texture, flowers, fruit, and other qualities. These are natural qualities to compare when selecting a landscape plant. But it is important to remember that looks and location aren't everything when selecting the best ornamental plants for your landscape.
Just because you are able to buy a plant online or from a mail-order catalog doesn't mean it is well adapted to your particular climate. This is a common mistake to make. The USDA has divided the United States into 11 zones for plant hardiness based on the low temperatures experienced in that zone. This rating system serves as a fairly accurate guide when choosing landscape plants. Even regionally, such as in California or Texas, there are major climactic differences between areas in close proximity, such as amount of rainfall, that are more favorable to some plants than others. When you purchase plants, they should be listed with the hardiness rating. So check the plant hardiness rating before making a commitment.
Other aspects to consider are site and soil conditions, size and type selection, pest resistance, and the initial health of the particular plant you are interested in. All of these factors come together to effect the growth and survival of your plants.
When is the Time to Fertilize?
Question: Hi, I live in Boston, Massachusetts and I was wondering if you could tell me what months I need to fertilize . Thank you.”
Thanks so much for your question. Generally speaking, a fall fertilizing is much more effective than fertilizing done in the spring. The reason for this is that in the fall, the grass is going dormant. Roots are busy processing and storing the materials necessary for their next growth cycle. It is then when the fertilizer will strengthen their roots and prepare to grow thick and lush in the early spring. If you've missed the fall fertilizing season, a spring feeding helps, but is much less effective.
Let's talk for a minute about what type of fertilizer is best to use. Experts recommend the use of a fertilizer that feeds the soil as well as the plant. By stimulating both of these areas, you can be sure your lawn system will flourish during the grow season. Always use natural fertilizers that contain controlled-release nitrogen and micronutrients that enhance the humus development.
Another issue to consider is how much to fertilize. As with watering, over fertilizing is bad for your lawn. In fact, it is much better to use too little fertilizer than to use too much. You can tell that you've over fertilized if your lawn gets a burned out look to it. It is easy to develop a thatch problem during this time. Thatch develops when dead, or non-mulched, and decaying plant stems, roots and leaves do not have time to decompose fully relative to new growth taking place. If you let a half an inch of thatch or more develop, it will choke out your healthy lawn. If this is the case, just reduce the amount of fertilizer you use to reverse the process.
Thanks so much for your question. Generally speaking, a fall fertilizing is much more effective than fertilizing done in the spring. The reason for this is that in the fall, the grass is going dormant. Roots are busy processing and storing the materials necessary for their next growth cycle. It is then when the fertilizer will strengthen their roots and prepare to grow thick and lush in the early spring. If you've missed the fall fertilizing season, a spring feeding helps, but is much less effective.
Let's talk for a minute about what type of fertilizer is best to use. Experts recommend the use of a fertilizer that feeds the soil as well as the plant. By stimulating both of these areas, you can be sure your lawn system will flourish during the grow season. Always use natural fertilizers that contain controlled-release nitrogen and micronutrients that enhance the humus development.
Another issue to consider is how much to fertilize. As with watering, over fertilizing is bad for your lawn. In fact, it is much better to use too little fertilizer than to use too much. You can tell that you've over fertilized if your lawn gets a burned out look to it. It is easy to develop a thatch problem during this time. Thatch develops when dead, or non-mulched, and decaying plant stems, roots and leaves do not have time to decompose fully relative to new growth taking place. If you let a half an inch of thatch or more develop, it will choke out your healthy lawn. If this is the case, just reduce the amount of fertilizer you use to reverse the process.
When is the Time to Fertilize?
Question: "Hi, I live in Boston, Massachusetts and I was wondering if you could tell me what months I need to fertilize . Thank you.”
Thanks so much for your question. Generally speaking, a fall fertilizing is much more effective than fertilizing done in the spring. The reason for this is that in the fall, the grass is going dormant. Roots are busy processing and storing the materials necessary for their next growth cycle. It is then when the fertilizer will strengthen their roots and prepare to grow thick and lush in the early spring. If you've missed the fall fertilizing season, a spring feeding helps, but is much less effective.
Let's talk for a minute about what type of fertilizer is best to use. Experts recommend the use of a fertilizer that feeds the soil as well as the plant. By stimulating both of these areas, you can be sure your lawn system will flourish during the grow season. Always use natural fertilizers that contain controlled-release nitrogen and micronutrients that enhance humus development.
Another issue to consider is how much to fertilize. As with watering, over fertilizing is bad for your lawn. In fact, it is much better to use too little fertilizer than to use too much. You can tell that you've over fertilized if your lawn gets a burned out look to it. It is easy to develop a thatch problem during this time. Thatch develops when dead, or non-mulched, and decaying plant stems, roots and leaves do not have time to decompose fully relative to new growth taking place. If you let a half an inch of thatch or more develop, it will choke out your healthy lawn. If this is the case, just reduce the amount of fertilizer you use to reverse the process.
Thanks so much for your question. Generally speaking, a fall fertilizing is much more effective than fertilizing done in the spring. The reason for this is that in the fall, the grass is going dormant. Roots are busy processing and storing the materials necessary for their next growth cycle. It is then when the fertilizer will strengthen their roots and prepare to grow thick and lush in the early spring. If you've missed the fall fertilizing season, a spring feeding helps, but is much less effective.
Let's talk for a minute about what type of fertilizer is best to use. Experts recommend the use of a fertilizer that feeds the soil as well as the plant. By stimulating both of these areas, you can be sure your lawn system will flourish during the grow season. Always use natural fertilizers that contain controlled-release nitrogen and micronutrients that enhance humus development.
Another issue to consider is how much to fertilize. As with watering, over fertilizing is bad for your lawn. In fact, it is much better to use too little fertilizer than to use too much. You can tell that you've over fertilized if your lawn gets a burned out look to it. It is easy to develop a thatch problem during this time. Thatch develops when dead, or non-mulched, and decaying plant stems, roots and leaves do not have time to decompose fully relative to new growth taking place. If you let a half an inch of thatch or more develop, it will choke out your healthy lawn. If this is the case, just reduce the amount of fertilizer you use to reverse the process.




